This kit provides the essentials for DIY throwing knife maintenance and storage. You complete the kit by adding rags or paper towels, a semi-airtight storage container (such as a plastic toolbox or case), and the surface treatment products you prefer (such as oil, Windex, and/or uncolored shoe polish). The items in this kit are offered here at a markup for your convenience. You can easily cut out the middle-man and source these items yourself.
The kit contains the following:
• One 8-inch file. The purpose of the file is to remove burrs and repair minor tip damage.
• Four small abrasive pads. The purpose of these 3M 7447 pads is to remove surface rust and stains.
• One corrosion-inhibiting vapor emitter. The purpose of this Zerust Plastab is to prevent corrosion while the knives are stored in a sealed container.
• Two moisture-absorbing desiccant packets. The purpose of this silica gel packet is to prevent corrosion while the knives are stored in a sealed container.
• One zippered pouch, approximately 12.5-inches long (style, color, brand, and material will vary).
There are two primary treatment options – the oil approach, or the dry approach. You’ll have to determine which works best for you. Other alternative options make use of shoe polish or paint/lacquer as a semi-permanent surface treatment.
The Oil Approach
The oil approach relies on oil as the primary corrosion inhibitor and cleaning agent. After using your knives, you wipe them with oil and place them into your storage container along with the corrosion-inhibiting kit products. For occasional heavy scrubbing, you wet the abrasive pads with oil (oiling the pads is not necessary, but is more effective). The problem with the oil approach is that it is messy and not reliably effective at preventing corrosion. This is because the oil may trap moisture against the steel, and it prevents the corrosion-inhibiting products included in the kit from doing their magic. I have tried at least ten different specialty oils and I’ve found that none will reliably protect against corrosion unless the knife has been cleaned and heated to 250°F prior to oiling, to drive off surface moisture. You can use any kind of oil such as coconut oil, 3-in-1, mineral, gun, WD-40, etc.
The Dry Approach
The dry approach relies on the kit items as the primary corrosion inhibitor and your Windex as the cleaning agent. Windex is the only water-based product that I’ve found that will not cause rust. After using your knives, you spray with Windex, wipe off, let air dry, and place them into your storage container along with the corrosion-inhibiting kit products. For occasional heavy scrubbing, you wet the abrasive pads with Windex (wetting the pads is not necessary, but is more effective). Because the knives are clean and dry, the corrosion-inhibiting kit products work very well while the knives are in storage.
More product details coming.
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